WHAT IS GLYCATION?
As sugar molecules enter the body’s system, they migrate and attach to fat and protein cells – a process often referred to as glycation. The proteins in skin cells most susceptible to glycation are the same ones that make a youthful complexion so plump and buoyant — collagen and elastin. But when sugar molecules attach to these fat and protein fibers, they become discolored, weak, stiff and malformed, producing what is known as sugar by-products or advanced glycation end products (a.k.a. AGE’s). This in turn, presents itself in the form of wrinkles, saggy skin, and a loss of radiance.
In addition, AGE’s also makes the skin more vulnerable to UV light, free radical damage and creates abnormal cells. Learning more about glycation for overall health and skin benefits is very important.
We feel it is the missing link for skin’s over 50 years of age for continued Pro Youth benefits. Every skin and body has a level of glycation but because it is a slow process of degradation many times you don’t see the affects until later years of life. Using ingredients to help reduce the glycation will give you a more vibrant healthy skin.
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ANTI-GLYCATION IN SKIN CARE
In the 80’s, a biochemist named Anthony Cerami, PhD, found that aminoguanidine molecules can block glucose-collagen pairs from forming, thus presenting us with the base for all anti-glycation formulations. Aminoguanidine is a nucleophilic hydrazine compound that prevents AGE formation on collagen. For many years, this was a key ingredient in Rhonda Allison formulas.
With the advancement of science, new sources of anti-glycation ingredients have been found:
- Albizia Julibrissin (Mimosa or Asian Silk) Bark Extract – AGE less
- Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract – AGE less, Peptide 3-N-1 Eye Cream
- Pueraria Mirifica Extract – Exotica Rhodiola
- Carnosine – Exotica Rhodiola, Moisture Eye Treatment, Antioxidant Complex Serum, Complex VI, MVC Serum
SUPPORTING ANTI-GLYCATION INGREDIENTS
There are many cutting-edge ingredients that lend support topically to a skin that is weakened and aging from diabetes (those most at risk of glycation) and other diseases that impact the skin. These same ingredients, by nature, would also protect against glycation, and therefore could theoretically be called “anti-glycation.”
It’s important to at least be in the know about topicals that inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (MMP's), reactive oxygen species (ROS), and now glycation (AGE). Some of these ingredients and where to find them include:
- Glycine Soya – Antioxidant Complex Serum, Complex VI, Bio Reform 28, Peptide Primer, Phyto-Endorphin Hand Cream
- Turmeric – Enviroprotect, eZinc Protection Cream
- Ascorbic Acid (L) – C-Peptide Complex, Derma Peel
- Epidermal Growth Factors (EGF) – Bio Reform 28, Growth Factor Serum, Growth Factor Serum Plus, Elite eEGF
- Centella Asiatica – Rosacea Serum
- Omega 6 Essential Fatty Acid (Linoleic Acid) – Drops of Essence Hydration Drops, Rosacea Serum
- Peptides – Peptide 38, Eye Lift, Mineral Freeze
- Resveratrol – Antioxidant Complex Serum, Complex VI, Peptide Primer, MVC Serum
Others include Cinnamon, Butcher’s Broom, Green Tea, Lipoic Acid, Vitamin E, Tocopherol (D-Alpha) and Glutathione (L) (Tripeptide). Since these support the reduction of free radicals and inflammation, they lend themselves to be an ally against glycation.